Madonna Melrose Articles

It is no wonder that Madonna Melrose has inherited a style all of her own and a passion for the world of makeup. As the daughter of dressmaker Norma Bernasconi and pharmacist Leonard Melrose, Madonna recalls growing up being constantly surrounded by beauty. The dresses her mother made looked like they had leapt off the pages of Vogue and the makeup her father brought home from the pharmacy smelt and looked fabulous. And so from her formative years Madonna would grasp at every opportunity to join her father at the pharmacy, while her fascination for makeup continued to grow as she preoccupied herself at the makeup stands, dusting and rearranging the products so everything looked just perfect.

IMPRESSIONABLE MEMORIES

She recalls her mother’s favourite “must have” makeup item being Yardley’s Bisque Beige Compact Powder in a stylish, reddish compact. Her mother would never leave home without it, and of course the red lipstick was also indispensable, which she also cleverly dabbed on her cheeks for a natural blush effect. All these were memorable memories that were indelibly fixed on Madonna’s impressionable mind from early childhood.

With her incredible talent and eye for detail, her mother often constructed garments just from pictures without even using a pattern. Her reputation was so well known that she was approached by Paton’s patterns to be their head designer, but she declined, as her family was her life. It was the materialisation of something out of nothing that Madonna found so fascinating about her mother’s skill and abilities. These experiences shaped her own belief today - that if you want something bad enough, you can achieve it. For Madonna, experience is life’s best teacher and although one also needs technical training in their chosen profession, it is the practical experiences that bring us to the true understanding of what works and what doesn’t – this is her belief.

Two years into a hairdressing apprenticeship Madonna decided to also put her hand to makeup and trained with Patricia Hutchence Advanced Makeup Academy in Sydney. After graduating Madonna was excited and ready to conquer the world of film, fashion and television, but still the hunger remained to continue to learn and explore new and better ways of doing things.

BREAKING THE MOULD

With a rebellious streak and an extremely stubborn and curious nature, Madonna was always open to a challenge, often pursuing difficult tasks and sometimes even the perceived impossible. She mascara to her model and after just a thick, luscious, top lash application decided her makeup should be completed at this point. To the amazement of her teacher she was instructed to also apply mascara on the bottom lashes.

Madonna of course questioned the necessity for this and since then has challenged the status quo breaking the mould of conventional thinking when it comes to makeup. Interestingly enough, to this day she never wears mascara on her bottom lashes and will rarely apply it on the bottom lashes of her subjects.

A QUEST FOR THE IDEAL PRODUCT

In the early years of her career Madonna admits to being a bit sheepish when it came to purchasing makeup for her kit. Basically if it was sold in the makeup schools and makeup artists had it in their kits, then it must be good and she too would buy it. It was not until she moved into freelance makeup for film, television and fashion photography that Madonna began questioning the effectiveness and necessity of having so many products in her kit. She thought how wonderful it would be if she had just one foundation type that could be versatile enough to meet the needs of both photography and television. Her unpredictable schedule would find her one day chasing the sunrise on Sydney’s Palm Beach with a bikini clad model for a front cover shoot, while by the afternoon she could be working indoors in a TV studio filming a TV series under harsh studio lighting.

THE IDENTIFYING QUALITIES

On location with natural light a photographic foundation needed to provide a natural and fresh finish, leaving the skin flawless with a slight healthy glow but with no evidence of product application. On the other hand, the total opposite makeup finish would be needed for a studio setting. Here the foundation would need to be matt without any shine, and it would not matter if the makeup was apparent. You could not get two more extreme finish needs.

So it was that Madonna continued her search for a foundation that combined the qualities of a liquid base with those of a powder. Was it too much to expect that a product could be moisturising, smoothing and light like an emulsion, yet at the same time easy to apply, practical, comfortable and as long lasting as a compact powder?

It was while working on location with Olivia Newton-John filming a TV series in the harsh wilderness of Russia that Madonna became frustrated. She had identified the kind of foundation she was looking for. It needed to be soft and creamy but not greasy and to possibly contain polymers and silicon oils to enable it to flow smoothly on o the skin making it easier to manipulate and faster to apply - a must on location. The product also needed to contain volatile components that could quickly evaporate and fix the colour on to the face so the foundation could last all day. These were the qualities she was looking for.

Having had the pleasure of working with two of Hollywood’s leading men, Pierce Brosnan and

Jeremy Irons, Madonna also discovered another vital quality. A product that would also condition the skin as well as add the necessary amount of colour with an absolutely natural finish for her male subjects. With Pierce enjoying the outdoors and Jeremy being partial to a cigarette or two, it was important to ensure some skin conditioning, without a lot of fuss.

The foundation would also need to contain moisturising agents and sun filters along with anti-ageing vitamins such as A and E to support the skin’s hydration levels and cut down on skin preparation time. Other qualities that she identified as essentialwere high pigment concentration with true lasting colour. This was reaffirmed after her time spent with Barry Humphries, transforming him into one of his alter ego characters - Dame Edna Everage. Here the demand for colour intensity for such a character on a male skin was critical for achieving the transformation. Madonna came to the conclusion that the thinner the powders the more pure and intense the colour would become.

It was not until she was researching for a TV show called Beauty Basics as executive producer that she realised that throughout her 20 years as an artist the “must have” products in her kit were from the Italian makeup range Diego Dalla Palma. The same range that she once retailed from her makeup and photographic studio in Sydney and the same range used for staff training for some of Australia’s leading hotels and corporations.

Wanting to learn more about this product Madonna contacted the company in Italy just over a year ago and It didn’t surprise her to learn that Diego Dalla Palma had just released a new makeup range with a fresh, wellness focus utilising, new innovative formulations. They had created a generation of products that were hyper comfortable, combining skin benefits and long-lasting colour – all the features she was looking for in one product range. Her prayers were finally answered!

Madonna is now thrilled to be the new driving force behind the Diego Della Palma range in Australia and New Zealand. With such faith and confidence in the product, she proudly believes that the “New Era” of Diego Dalla Palma will usher the most innovative make-up range for the fastidious and discerning consumer. Furthermore, the range perfectly complements the wellness philosophy of the contemporary spa, salon, and cosmetic and medical clinic. Modanna believes that this product is a winner – so much so that she is prepared to back it with her professional integrity.

Madonna Melrose - Beauty Heaven

What sets Diego Dalla Palma apart from other cosmetic brands?
It is the wellness focus. Each product in the range uses highly innovative formulations that combine treatment with colour and comfort. The make-up range is a natural extension of your skincare. To begin you have foundations with anti ageing and decongesting ingredients right through to mascaras with vitamin C for conditioning the lashes. The Diego Dalla Palma range really is at the forefront of innovation.

What textures and colours are you working with for spring/summer?
The Spring/Summer collection is called oro, which is Italian for gold, the colour of summer and the colour of the sun. Lipsticks with golden hues, lip glosses with gold highlights and velvety eye shadows all creating a luminous effect for the features while the special tanning cakes create an unbeatable bronzed brilliance for the face and body.

What trends do you foresee will emerge for the summer season?
Heavily lined eyes with kohl kajal to offset and create a sexy light and fresh look.

During 1998-2000 you worked as Olivia-Newton John's personal assistant and traveled with her throughout her Australia and America concert tours. This must have been an interesting time: how did you enjoy this part of your life?
I originally worked with Olivia as her personal hair and make-up artist dating back 15 years now. And I guess it was the trust that was gained during this period that enabled me to step into the role of her personal assistant. It was without doubt the most incredible journey and one that I am so truly grateful to have had. It was a once in a lifetime opportunity. The most precious thing I gained from that time is the friendship I now share with Olivia. The reason I stopped my travels was to start a family and her support and encouragement helped me understand that life is all about timing. To this day she is still very much a part of my life and in fact has just put some of the Diego Dalla Palma range into her spa. She loves the Special Tanning Cake and Blush.

In 2004 you became the driving force for Diego Dalla Palma in Australasia. In what ways have you promoted the brand or worked with it to help it flourish?
In keeping with my vision for the range my focus for the first year was industry awareness rather than consumer awareness. I believed there was no point in promoting or advertising a range that was not easily available. So in the last year the range has made a comfortable entrance into the exclusive spa and beauty salon arena and filled the gap for a truly professional range. You wont find it in pharmacies or in current format department stores as I want the consumer to be able to experience the range and the day spa environment is the perfect place. As a professional make-up artist for more than 20 years, Diego Dalla Palma has been the only range I have ever used so I guess the product, to an extent, is being advertised through my experiences.

As contributing fashion & beauty writer for Italy Down Under magazine, what do you love about your work?
I love the process of writing an article or story and it is not that dissimilar to making up a face. It is a process, it has a start, an end and a finish but you have the opportunity and creative license to add and subtract at anytime in-between.
Like any form of creativity you have days when it flows and others when you think you don't have any creative bones left in your body.

Are there any key differences between Italian and Australian beauty/cosmetic styles?
Yes absolutely, but I think it is more to do with attitude and confidence and the way the Italians wear the make-up rather than actual product or colour. Make-up is worn as an extension of style across Europe but I feel in Australia women actually apply the colour and the product intentionally and specifically. Neither approach to make-up is right or wrong, better or worse, just different.

What do you find to be women's main concerns about make-up?
It is without a doubt wanting to do their face in two minutes but have it look like they have spent an hour. I find that women put too much emphasis on comparison to other women instead of acceptance of themselves.

FACE FACTS

BY MADONNA MELROSE vol.19 Summer 2004 

As a professional Make-up Artist and consultant Madonna Melrose has worked extensively with Olivia Newton-John and on countless fashion shoots. She talks to Wedding Magazine about colour and choosing the right shades in make-up - from the eyes to the lips - to bring out your individual beauty.

One’s beauty should always be enhanced and caressed never applied with abandon.

With this belief, I am not a convert to the school of thought, that colour is chosen by categorizing someone as summer or winter, cool or warm.

Therefore when choosing makeup colours, you may wish to turn to the windows of your soul - your God given beauty.

Blue Eyes look naturally alluring when smoked with hues as pale as the sky or as deep as the ocean. Work confidently with dark blue liners, as black can look very harsh on a pale blue eye but quite striking on deep, dark blue eyes.

Light frosted silvers, smoky ash, dark charcoal and lead will create a striking and dramatic effect on blue eyes. Compliment your shadow with a grey eyeliner one shade darker than your shadow choice or use black to pierce the night.

Blue eyes can most definitely handle a splash of colour in the soft pink to violet spectrum. This will establish a very light and fresh appearance. A grey liner will be a better choice if experimenting with these colours on the lid.

Green Eyes sparkle when partnered with browns, from light mushroom to warm coffees and dark chocolates. The true essence of nature is captured in these partnerships of colour and will most definitely be enhanced by brown lining.

Metallic gold’s and russets, coppers and bronze will undoubtedly establish a very regal gaze and work best at night.

You have a choice of lining the eye with brown for a more subtle finish or black to create a very dramatic effect.

If you have a desire to add colour, plums, purples & dark grapes are the perfect companion with green and should be finished off with a dark charcoal liner.

Emeralds, grass green and seawater will enhance no end and create a very sultry appearance if smoked over the eye. In this instance work with dark green liners or black for nighttime allure.

Brown Eyes will smoulder when stained with olive greens and avocados. A strong, dark brown liner is a must to finish the eye.

Naturally you can work within the earthen spectrum. Neutral shades of bone and sand to rich chocolate browns. A brown liner will help you achieve a more natural finish whereas a black liner will give you depth and create great drama and contrast.

Soft fruity pinks such as corals and apricots will freshen and lighten up the brown eye adding just the right amount of colour if needed. A soft brown liner should be your first preference with this colour combination.

When trying new colours or shades on the eye keep in mind that makeup should enhance your features not overpower them in anyway.

Our next mission is to take the guesswork out of finding the right shade of blush.

We hear a lot about skin tone being yellow or pink, warm or cool but there is an easier way to help us define our skin tone, then in turn helping us to choose the correct shade of blusher.

Follow these easy guidelines and your makeup will improve dramatically.

Fine, translucent, porcelain skin works best when dusted with soft pale baby pinks and colours based on pastels.

Fair, light skin will respond beautifully to a dusting of blush in the sandy pink tones.

Medium skin will be bought to life by applying reddish brown, tawny rose or burgundy.

Olive & tanned skin needs to be highlighted only and respond best to bronzers. Adding actual colour to this skin shade can often look dirty but if you insist on colour go with deep shades of rose.

Latin complexions should go deeper with their colour choice and work with the plums and berries.

Let’s now take a fresh approach to choosing lip colour.

Your naked, natural lip colour is the perfect place to start and as a general rule go one shade darker for a more natural finish or two shades darker for a stronger finish.

Very pale, barely there lips work best with soft, milky tones of pink and coral. Nude sheer browns will also enhance your natural lip shade.

Medium lips need golden browns with orange or rich rose and salmons to create a desirable pout.

Darker lips can use colour good enough to eat. Try plums, grapes and raisins.

Brown or purple lips need enhancing with dark tones of brown, like chocolate or deep shades of berry such as blueberry or blackberry.

A new mode to choosing colour is now at your fingertips so experiment & indulge but most of all enjoy your makeup.